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When compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning names. Yet, tucked prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble place achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.